Stair Railings Styles

The stair railing at home is more than a simple way to get from a floor to another. You can create an extension of your personal likes in decoration, with ornamental parts of wood, iron and other material easy to install that will increase the value of your home at the same time. If you think that the stair railing is one of the first tings that people see when they come in, you should think as well that, for building a new staircase or just a new remodelling, ask always for the advice and good service of a qualified person who will give you some good ideas for.

When something never goes out of style is unique. Choose wood stairs.

INTERIOR DOORS

Nowadays there a wide variety of materials to build a stair railing. Long time ago and still today....houses had stairs wood railings, as wood is a nice material to work with. Especially beautiful are which are made of oak wood... with wonderful red colour and knocks that are unmistakable. The star of the house will be an oak wood balustrade, without any doubt. If we try to match the colour of the stairs with the wood flooring it will give beauty elegance to our homes. Although it can be a difficult task due to the many stair parts that we need to have in account to choose...like balusters, handrails, treads, and ornamental trim pieces.

On a staircase the first part we notice is the railing. It has its important use, one is to provide security for going up and down the stairs, and the other is to hold up the balustrade of the staircase. These elements must be kept in mind when the staircase is going to have a railing design. Unique, are wood railings. They are charm, grace, and soft, the perfect end for your house, improving the look of it and of course increasing the value of it. They are durable and strong. Wood is the choice that never goes out of style.

Oak wood, elegance and charm to your home.

The oak wood is generally used to build the stairs traditional commercial buildings such as libraries, office buildings and houses. It gives charm and elegance to any room whit its unmistakeable smooth and warm colour. If you think that metal railings can improve and give more style to your staircase, use it. They have many decorative options and display themselves beautifully. Lots luxury and high homes are decorated with iron railings. They display grace, elegance and a special luxury. A style that nowadays is being used in most of the modern buildings all around the world. Iron railings are used for many residential and commercial staircases. They offer as which are made of wood, safety and functionality. Iron decorates your home. They have a wide variety of design, assuring that you will find a special one for display at home. The metal stair railing fit in any environment. What you need is just the good advice and work of a qualified person.

Is not an easy task but the results will give you satisfaction.

Making stairs can be very complicated. First priority in this type of project is to make it safe and functional. After it comes style. A few things, the rise between treads, the number of treads and the total run of the steps, the horizontal distance between bottom and the top of the stairs. Following these steps will assist you in creating a successful staircase. Be creative. Your inner spirit will help you on the creation of your stairs. Lots of styles, modern, traditional or contemporary. Spirit and design to have a work of art at home.

Stair Railings Styles

Andrew used to publish decorating tips and reviews at his site, where you can find articles on railing styles including further information regarding stair railings.

http://www.home-decorating-reviews.com
Home decorating reviews for your interior design projects

INTERIOR DOORS

Dual Pane Window Glass Repair

For the past few weeks, I have been explaining how to repair a broken window pane in your home. But, what if you have dual pane windows? Is the process the same? Well, pretty much, except for a couple of variations. So, let's review the single pane repair process, and I will point out the differences regarding dual pane windows.

When we start talking about dual pane windows, one of the first things that comes to mind is vinyl window frames instead of aluminum. When dealing with dual pane windows, you can have either aluminum or vinyl frames, depending on the year the house was built. Dual pane glass got popular in the 1980's, but vinyl frames didn't really catch on until the 1990's. So, if your house is less than 10 years old, chances are you have vinyl framed windows. In either case, I will discuss the differences. Let's say you have a sliding aluminum frame window with dual pane glass. The procedure for removing the frame from the opening and the glass from the sash is the same as with the single pane windows.

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The differences are, first, the glass goes into the frame about twice as far as the single pane window. The single pane window glass went 1/4" into the surrounding rubber. The dual pane usually goes 1/2" into the rubber. So, if both pieces of glass have been broken, you are going to have to order a new IGU (Insulated Glass Unit) from the local glass shop. They are going to want to know the width, height, overall thickness, and possibly the individual glass thickness. The best way to get the dimensions is to measure the width and height from rubber to rubber, write those numbers down. Then, remove the panel from the opening and place it on a table like we did with the single pane window. Remove the screws from opposite corners and pull of the frame. You will be able to see how far the glass goes into the surrounding rubber. If it's 1/2", then you want to add 1" to the width and height that you measured previously (1/2" times two sides= 1"). Then, measure the overall thickness of the unit by removing the rubber from the glass edge.

Typically, this dimension is 1/2", but not always. There is a metal spacer that divides the two panes of glass. Make a note of the color so you can request the same color in the new IGU. It's either going to be silver or bronze. If you want to get the same size spacer you need to give the glass shop the thickness of each piece of glass in the IGU. If the old unit has 1/8" glass on both sides, and the overall thickness of the unit is 1/2", then they will use a 1/4" spacer. If the glass is 3/32" on both sides, they will use a 5/16" spacer. If you don't care about matching the spacer thickness, you can request the thicker 1/8" glass, and they will automatically use a 1/4" spacer.

When you get the new IGU home, the installation is the same as the single pane window. Now, what if only one side of the IGU has been broken? Many times the outer pane will break, but the inside pane is fine. You can order a whole new IGU Like we just did, or, if you're the adventurous type, you can order only the single pane of glass that was broken and replace it. I'm going to explain how to do it, then i'm going to tell you the things that can go wrong. After you have the window pane on the table with the surrounding frame removed, you will see a black rubber type substance around the edge where the spacer is applied. This is a butyl sealant, and you have to separate the broken glass from this butyl. The best way to do it is to take a utility knife with a new blade and break through the butyl where it meets the broken glass. Then, take a new hacksaw blade, and push it into the area where you sparated the butyl from the glass. You don't want the hacksaw blade to be attached to a hacksaw. Using your hand, saw back and forth as you work your way around the edge of the glass. This should allow you to remove the glass.

Once that's done, lay rags on top of the good piece of glass to catch any debris, and scrape the surface of the spacer that will be contacting the new glass. Use a putty knife. Then, remove the rags and debris. When you are ready to put the new glass on, clean the inside of the good piece of glass that you didn't remove. Remember, once you install the new glass, any debris or finger marks on the inside will be permanently sealed. So, clean it real good and check it from all angles. Do the same to the side of the new glass that will be going to the inside of the IGU. Then, run a thin bead of clear silicone around the entire perimeter of the spacer. Set your new glass on the spacer and use finger pressure to adhere the glass to the silicone all the way around.Then, come in from the side, and run silicone around the side where the glass and spacer meet. Cover the window opening with something for 24 hours. You do not want to touch the IGU for 24 hours. The silicone needs to cure. After 24 hours, you can assemble the unit and install it back into the opening.

There are a couple of things that can go wrong. The first one is leaving marks on the inside portion of the glass. Once you seal the glass, you cannot clean what's between the panes. The other thing involves condensation between the panes. If you have even the slightest break in the silicone seal around the glass, chances are you will beging to see moisture form as soon as the nights get cold and the days get warm. You are going to have to decide if you are confident enough in your ability to do the job right, or if it's better to pay the extra money to have it done for you. Just because you pay someone to do it, doesn't mean you still won't encounter the same problems. The difference is, they have to guarantee their IGU for a minimum of 1 year. I have received many units over the years that had marks in between the glass. The beauty of it is the manufacturer can't dispute it, because there's no way anyone else could have done it except them.

OK, what if the window frames are vinyl instead of aluminum? Well, the main difference is the glass in a vinyl window no longer has the rubber gasket around the edge. You dont remove the opposite corner screws and separate the frame from the glass. What they do is put either silicone or a two sided tape on the lip of the frame where the glass rests. That's what holds the glass in the frame, then they apply a snap in stop on all four sides of the glass. So, you have to remove the stops first, then turn over the panel and break the seal holding the glass to the frame using a utility knife. Wear gloves during this procedure. If only one side of the IGU is broken, don't even think about repairing just the one side. You will never get that IGU out of the frame without breaking the other piece of glass in the process. But, on the positive side, you can remove the stops without taking the panel out if it's a slider. You can then measure the dimensions of the glass, and order the new IGU. That way you eliminate any need to temporarily cover up your window. The same is true for the stationary portion of a slider, or a picture window. Before you install the new IGU, be sure and clean the lip that had the tape or silicone, and apply either silicone or tape. Either will work.

You will discover that replacing an IGU in an aluminum frame window is a whole lot easier than a vinyl window. But, in either case, you can do it yourself and save a few bucks.

Dual Pane Window Glass Repair

John Rocco has been installing replacement windows since 1978. To learn more, visit How To Install Windows

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How to Rescreen a Sliding Screen Door

If you have a sliding patio door in your home, you know that the screened portion of the door will become worn and damaged over time. With years of use, metal screens will get dents and creases, fiberglass screens can easily become pulled out of their frame, and cloth screens can be ripped, torn, or moth-eaten. One of the easiest do-it-yourself projects you can tackle at home is to rescreen your sliding door.

Rescreening the door yourself will save time and money, and the end product will result in a major facelift to that area of your home.

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The first step in rescreening your door is to measure with height and width of the screen frame. Be sure to add a minimum of 2 additional inches to both measurements, to ensure that you have enough material. If you want to err on the side of caution, add 4 to 6 inches to each measurement.

When you go to the hardware store to buy new screen fabric, be sure to take some time to read about the benefits of each type of material. Look for a material that won't be eaten by insects and that contains some type of UV inhibitor to prevent fading and decay. If you live in an area where gnats are a problem, you may also want to choose a very fine mesh to prevent gnats and other small bugs from squeezing through. Keep in mind, however, that the finer meshed screens are also darker, and will let less light shine through.

There are several other items you'll want to pick up while you're at the hardware store. One of these is a product called screen spline. Spline is a thin, spaghetti-like rubber material that is rolled into a groove around a screen door to hold the screen in place. Spline comes in many sizes, so it's advisable to take along a small piece of your existing spline that was holding the old screen in place. You'll also need to purchase a special tool for rolling the spline into the groove, usually called a spline roller. Most large hardware stores will carry such tools, and they make the job much faster and easier. Some spline rollers even feature small hook-shaped knives at the end for cutting off the excess screen fabric, which is a much safer method than using a plain utility blade.

Once you're back at home with all your tools, you'll need to remove the screen door from its rolling track and find a flat place to do the work. A clean garage or porch floor can work quite well. Begin by removing the old spline from all the grooves. Once the spline is removed, the old screen fabric will pull away quite easily. If the channel that holds the spline is dirty, now would be a good time to wipe or vacuum it out.

Now you're ready to install your new screen. Center the new piece of screen fabric over the opening, and begin rolling your spline into the groove, with the screen fabric under it. If possible, having a second person to assist you with this process, by holding the screen square, is very helpful. However, if you do not have someone to help, consider taping the four corners of your screen to the door frame with painters tape. This will help to keep your screen in place as you work your way around the door. Use your spline roller tool to roll the spline into place, making sure it's deeply seated into the channel. Continue this process, working your way around all four sides of the door. When you're done, the screen should be well stretched and taught. The final step is to cut off the excess screen fabric. Perform this step carefully; you don't want to accidentally cut your newly stretched screen.

Unless your door gets a lot of use or you have young children or pets in your home, most homeowners will only need to rescreen their doors once every 5 to 10 years. Once you've completed this project, you'll have the satisfaction of having done the work yourself and knowing that you'll be ready to perform the job again when it's needed next. Now your screen door should look like new again and will be ready for years of additional use in your home.

How to Rescreen a Sliding Screen Door

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Stud Spacing and Wall Framing

Remodeling and building homes over the years I have seen all sorts of stud spacing measurements in bearing and non-bearing walls.

How far should we space a framing stud in a bearing wall?

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Most plans will give you this information. If you have a structural shear wall the plans will tell you what size of lumber to use at the plywood breaks. The normal spacing on a bearing wall will be 16 inches on center unless otherwise noted on the building plans. This is the most common spacing for studs in a wall.

How far can we space framing studs in a nonbearing wall?

I have seen studs spaced as far as 24 inches on center in a nonbearing wall. Over the years looking at the building code books I have found this to be acceptable for most framing applications. Do not confuse a nonbearing walls with a structural shear walls because there is no weight sitting on the shear wall.

Interior structural shear walls will require 16 inch on center spacing or less depending on the structural engineer and your local building department.

What are the disadvantages of spacing the studs 24 inches on center?

Using half-inch drywall with 24 inch on center stud spacing can give the wall a week or spongy feel. I have been in houses that have 24 inch on center's stud spacing and can actually push the wall and see it move. Using 5/8 drywall will solve this problem in your walls.

What are the advantages of spacing the studs 24 inches on center?

The only advantage in spacing the studs farther apart is the fact you will be able to save a few dollars on the overall cost of building or remodeling your house. I personally do not recommend this process because the savings is miniscule compared to the overall cost of building the entire house.

If you look on a measuring tape between 19 and 20 inches you will usually find a little diamond. This little diamond is another measurement for laying out eight-foot walls or floors. So instead of using 16 inch on center layout you can use 19 1/4 for stud spacing. This will save you an additional stud in your wall or floor joist every 8 feet.

I have been writing more articles on home construction problems trying to help contractors and homeowners build safer stronger houses.

Stud Spacing and Wall Framing

Greg Vanden Berge is working on the internet to promote the education for creating simple to follow guides and home building books to help professional building contractors as

well as the weekend warriors. He is currently working on more Building and Remodeling Library and adding useful content to help solve problems created by the lack of construction knowledge in the building industry.

Visit us and get more information on building and remodeling your homes in San Marcos Home Building

INTERIOR DOORS

How To Stain Kitchen Cabinets

Staining kitchen cabinets, and how you prepare to stain depends on what you are starting with.

Are you building your own cabinets? Are your cabinets unfinished in your garage waiting to be installed? Are your cabinets new and already installed, but in need of staining? Are you stripping your cabinets and then re-staining and refinishing them? Or are you going to try your hand at re-facing?

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You will prepare and stain a bit differently for each of the above situations; however, there are some basic steps and supplies that are universal when you are staining kitchen cabinets.

List of Basic Supplies You Will Need:

a good stain (I like a good oil-based stain, like a Sherwin-Williams oil based wiping stain) stirring stick sand paper (150 to 320 grit) saw horses or work bench to stain on drop clothes/cardboard cotton rags carpet pieces or other tool to apply stain (the right carpet really works well to get into those nooks and crannies) clothes/shoes you don't mind getting dirty (the stain won't come out - it's a good idea to invest in a body apron that you don't mind getting ruined) dust mask/respirator face mask latex or rubber gloves lacquer thinner or acetone (to remove stain off of where you don't want it - like hinges or the floor; if you don't have these, you can use finger nail polish remover, most contain acetone) well ventilated area to work in area to set wood to dry
Step #1 - Remove Doors, Drawers, Hardware and Lay Flat

If you are building your own cabinets, staining them is simply a step in the building process. You can stain everything, and put finish on it too, before you ever put anything together.

If your cabinets are pre-built, try to remove as much hardware as possible (handles and hinges). It is much easier to put the hardware back on than to try and clean it later. If you can take the hardware off, number each piece, then also put that same number on the wood where the hardware sits - making sure it is inconspicuous.

You should also remove the doors and drawer fronts before you begin staining kitchen cabinets, if you can, so you can lay them flat. Again, if you remove hinges, etc., do so and number so it won't show on your finished product.

The advantage of having an item lying flat while you are staining kitchen cabinets is that the stain and finish won't run all over and create a look you don't want - sloppy. Who wants to put a lot of work, time, and effort into staining kitchen cabinets, just to see the finished product look sloppy and completely unprofessional? Learning how to stain kitchen cabinets means ending up with a stain job that looks beautiful and professional and says to the world that you know what you're doing. You want your cabinets to look like you paid a fortune, even if you didn't.

Step #2 - Look Your Pieces Over and Sand If Necessary

When first staining kitchen cabinets, look over the pieces you want to stain. Do they need to be sanded first? Most likely they are already sanded well, and you'll just have to sand out small scuff marks which resulted from handling them or installing the cabinets.

Use a fine grit sandpaper, 150, 220, or even higher. Once you begin staining kitchen cabinets, any marks you've missed in sanding will jump out at you. You can always sand out marks and scuffs after you've stained your kitchen cabinets, but that takes more time and energy, so try to do a good job of sanding initially.

Step #3 - Setting Up The Area Where You Will Be Staining Kitchen Cabinets - Remember Safety First!

It is a good idea to stain items on saw horses if you have them, or on any sturdy table or bench that is about waist high. As you learn how to stain kitchen cabinets, you will be glad you used a drop cloth or cardboard on your floor or on any area that you don't want stain on. You can use lacquer thinner or acetone to wipe up stain, but it doesn't always work (like you can almost never get stain out of clothes). Also, lacquer thinner or acetone might melt or ruin what the stain is sitting on. If you don't have lacquer thinner or acetone, use finger nail polish remover. It has acetone in it. Don't inhale the fumes of such products, or get them on your hands.

You'll also need to mask off any parts of the cabinets you don't want stained, such as the interiors.

Wear clothes and shoes you don't mind getting dirty, and/or a full body apron.

You should also wear latex or rubber gloves and safety glasses when you are staining kitchen cabinets. These precautions are not only for when you are learning how to stain your kitchen cabinets, but are necessary even if you become an expert. Safely is of the utmost importance.

ALERT: BEWARE OF DANGEROUS FUMES. Wearing a dust mask won't do any good against fumes. Only wear a dust mask if you are in the sanding process. You will either have to invest in a respirator face mask for your safety, or ensure that you are in an extremely well ventilated area, such as your garage with doors wide open, or both. Fumes from the chemicals used while you are staining your kitchen cabinets are extremely dangerous, not only to breathe in, but, if concentrated enough, they can cause an explosion. And, don't be fooled by water-based products. They can give off fumes and hazardous odors as well. Each product's danger level is different, but error on the side of caution. Knowing how to stain kitchen cabinets means knowing how to do it safely.

Step #4 - Applying The Stain

Once you know where you are going to be staining kitchen cabinets, and have yourself and your area prepared, open your stain can and stir well. This cannot be overstated enough. When the can sits for any length of time, the stain will separate and sediment (color) will sit at the bottom of the can. If you do not stir well, the stain you use from the top of the can will be much lighter than the stain you end up using at the bottom of the can (and at the end of your project). These results will not look good. The things you stain first will be much lighter than the last pieces you stain.

To apply the stain, one of the easiest tools to use are old carpet remnants. Cut them into approximately 4 x 3 inch rectangles. Dip one end of the carpet into your stain, then rub the carpet onto your wood. It doesn't matter if you go with the grain or against the grain at this point, you just want to make sure that you cover all surfaces. If you are doing intricate work, such as doors with groves or raised panels, be sure to get stain into corners. Over staining at this point is a good idea, because the excess will be wiped off. This is where the drop clothes and wearing an apron come in handy, because it can get pretty messy!!

After you apply stain to your piece, look it over to make sure you didn't miss any spots. Areas that are commonly missed in learning how to stain your kitchen cabinets include: grooves, door edges, drawer edges, or any corners - like where the raised panel corners meet the door frame.

Step #5 - Wiping The Stain Off - A Very Important Multi-Step In Ensuring Your Piece Looks Great

As you are first learning about staining kitchen cabinets, I suggest you wipe the stain off immediately. Most cans of stain suggest leaving the stain sit for 10 minutes, then wiping off the excess. I've found that this does not usually change the color, so why wait? Also, if you are staining kitchen cabinets that are already installed, or already built, and you can't lay pieces flat, your stain will run all over if you let it sit for any length of time. You will want to wipe it up as soon as possible.

If you want a darker piece of wood, purchase a darker stain color. The only time that waiting to wipe excess stain off will actually darken your piece significantly is if you can let it sit for over 30 minutes. This is really a false darkening, and the problem with it is that your stain is usually so dry by then that it's difficult to remove smudges and wipe off the piece properly. The stain ends up sitting on top of the wood, not soaking in. Use your own judgment. If you decide to wait the 10 minutes, do it on every piece to ensure consistency.

Actually wiping the excess stain off in itself is a two step process.

First, have several cotton rags at your disposal. Put a rag in each hand. Never touch your wood with bare or gloved hands alone after it's been stained, as it will leave a smudge mark. Wipe off the bulk of the excess stain. At this point it doesn't matter if you are going with the grain or not, you just want to get the big spots of stain wiped up.

The second step is a finishing type step in staining kitchen cabinets. Take another clean rag. Go back over your piece of wood, this time with the grain. The second rag takes more stain off, preventing smudge marks. The biggest enemy in staining is leaving smudge marks.

Following these two steps and not being afraid to use rags as needed will ensure that you don't leave any smudges. Look your piece over. If you have left any smudges, wipe off gently and blend color in with your cotton rag.

Step #6 - The Final Step In Staining - Set Your Pieces Aside To Dry

Now that you've learned how to stain kitchen cabinets, set your pieces aside to dry (or just let them hang there if they are already installed). You can lay your piece on a flat surface if only one side is stained. If your piece has multiple sides that are stained, you can lay it flat on something that allows for air circulation to the back, such as saw horses, or if you do enough staining, purchase a professional staining rack. One caveat: where the saw horses or rack touch the stained piece, smudge marks may be left. Before you finish a piece that has dried on such equipment, you may need to touch up that side.

You can also lean your piece against a wall to dry. When your stain is drying, it is best to let air get to as many sides that you have stained as possible. It's also okay to let fans run in the area where you are drying your piece. This helps it to dry faster and doesn't hurt the end result; however, never let fans run on a a piece that you've put finish on.

How long your piece has to dry depends on what type of stain you are using. Read the label and act accordingly.

ONE FINAL AND IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT SAFETY AS YOU LEARN HOW TO STAIN KITCHEN CABINETS

Remember to hang your rags to dry, ensuring air movement around them as well. Too many times, bunched together wet staining rags have caused a tragic explosion resulting in fire and even death. Please be careful!!

You Are Now Ready For The Next Step - Finishing

Congratulations!!! You have learned how to stain kitchen cabinets and have completed your staining project!

After your pieces are completely dry, you are ready for the next step - putting a beautiful, clear finish on your beautifully stained kitchen cabinets!

And remember - HAVE A HAPPY KITCHEN!!!

How To Stain Kitchen Cabinets

About the Author:
Crystal co-owned a custom cabinet shop for 14 years (1992-2006). She is now a stay-at-home mom who writes on the web, sharing all that she's learned from her years building and installing kitchen cabinets.

For more free information check out the websites: http://www.kitchen-cabinets-and-hardware.com and http://www.thewoodworkersdepot.com (an online kitchen hardware store).

You can also check out a great lawn care site: http://www.wrgrounds.com

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Tips For Great Restaurant Interior Design

One of the things that we really enjoy when we get to eat outside of our
homes and eat in a restaurant is the ambiance, besides the food that they are
offering. Ambiance really plays a big part when it comes to making you enjoy
your dining experience and for some, it determines if they will be returning to
the restaurant or not.

Here are some great tips that you can take note of for a great design if you are
one of those people who are thinking of opening up a restaurant. These tips play
a big part in design and are proven to be very effective when it comes to
creating a great ambiance where people will keep coming back for more of what
your restaurant can offer.

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Know This

One of the best restaurants interior design tips that you should first take note
of is knowing and understanding your target market. Just by determining what
your customers are demanding, you can instantly create a design in your mind
that will suit best suit their lifestyle. Are you going for the young urban
professionals who wear a coat and tie most of the time that will require your restaurant interior design to be more
flashy and elegant? Or are you going for the market of kids who enjoy having
quick fixes for their tummies but will like play rooms or arcades at the same
time?

Getting a feedback from your target customers will clearly help you in
formulating the best design in your mind. Chances are, once that you have
finally determined what they want and once you have implemented all those
elements in your restaurant, the higher the chances that they will, time and
time again, visit your place and spread the word that yours is one of the
greatest restaurants that they have been in.

Ask Help From The Experts

It is also important to recognize that you cannot do all the
restaurant interior design by yourself and sometimes it will be best to get help from the experts. Vision Design is one of the most reputable interior design companies in the industry and they are
specializing in designing restaurants, spas, homes, and others and have already
received numerous awards for their outstanding designs and service.

Tips For Great Restaurant Interior Design

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INTERIOR DOORS

Pergo Laminate Flooring - Learn How to Do a DIY Pergo Flooring Installation

Pergo Laminate Flooring is one of the giants in the laminate hardwood flooring industry. The floors are designed for home remodeling DIY enthusiasts, so questions related to installing laminate flooring abound. Pergo, Harmonics, Armstrong Laminate Flooring and similar products are pounced upon by gleeful, hand-rubbing first-time home remodelers. An average-sized floor can be ready to use and admire within a day - just imagine all the compliments from somewhat green-around-the-gills neighbors...

The days of battling to fit messy, sticky, glued laminate flooring are long gone thanks to ranges such as Pergo glueless laminate flooring planks. The unique tongue and groove designs of Pergo floors simply click together for a perfect finish. This is one of the most gratifying do it yourself jobs to tackle, as progress is measurable and the end result quite spectacular.

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Is Installing Pergo Flooring Over Existing Floors Advisable?

The beauty of Pergo Laminate Flooring is that it can be laid directly over ceramic, vinyl, tiles or real wood floors, saving you the trouble of ripping out an old floor first. Make sure that the floor is clean, smooth and carefully sand down any bumps or peaked joints. Carpeting needs to be taken out however. It is always recommended to do fittings of cabinets or cupboards first, before tackling your flooring project. Real hardwood installed over a concrete sub-floor also needs to be removed before a Pergo installation.

Do I Need Expansion Room Around The Perimeter Of My Pergo Flooring Installation?

Pergo Laminate Flooring is a floating floor product, meaning that it isn't permanently fixed to the sub-floor area. These ranges expand and contract due to changes in humidity and temperature. It is therefore vital to leave a 1/4" expansion space between the flooring planks and the adjacent walls or cupboards. If you don't do this, you will have unsightly buckling floors. The Pergo floor moldings are used to hide these spaces after installation and to ensure a professional finish. Use spacers to keep your distances even. If you are tackling a very large floor area, the expansion space needs to be increased.

Does Pergo Laminate Flooring Also Have A Hollow Sound When Used?

The sound depends largely on the sub-floor layer and the thickness of the laminate flooring installation. One way to get around this is to install a sound underlayment and resin polyethylene film underneath your Pergo Laminate Flooring planks. This is a highly effective technique to use if you want to dampen the sound. This protective layer also acts as a moisture barrier, lengthening the life of the flooring. Take a look at Pergo SilentStep foam or Soundbloc foam and Moisturbloc vapor barrier. By adding these a cushioning layer, you also ensure a more comfortable, soft floor underfoot. If the sub-floor is wood, a vapor barrier isn't introduced before installing Pergo Laminate Flooring.

Can I Install Pergo Immediately After My Purchase?

To be on the safe side, acclimate your Pergo floor planks by leaving the cartons in the room where they will be installed, for a period of 49 to 96 hours. This precaution will give you a floor that remains clicked into place, rather than becoming an ugly buckling disaster area.

Can I Use Pergo Laminate Flooring In A Bathroom Or Kitchen?

Pergo Laminate Flooring's surface is highly water resistant, so the planks can be used in high humidity areas such as bathrooms and kitchens. In these areas however, the expansion spaces need to be sealed with Pergo Sealant or a similar mildew-resistant silicone product before installing the trim or molding. The same should be done where the planks were cut to make room for cupboards or a dishwasher. Some experts also recommend sealing the joints by using glue. Check with your supplier about the most satisfactory installation process. In spite of its water resistance, Pergo Laminate Flooring are not made to handle standing water.

Can I Use Pergo On Stairs?

Pergo flooring is perfect for stairs. Steps are finished with Pergo Stair Nosing. The nosing is adhered with a quality construction adhesive and finishing screws. A stair application is the only time that the floating floor concept of Pergo is replaced with a glued end product.

How Do I Ensure A Professional Finish When Installing Pergo Laminate Flooring?

A large range of color-coordinated transition moldings are available to give an elegant and stylish finish to your flooring project. T-Moldings are used in doorways, while end moldings are used along sliding doors and around tubs and basins. If you need to go from a raised Pergo flooring area to a lower hard surface such as vinyl, you would choose a hard surface reducer.

Oops! I Have A Nick In My Pergo Laminate Flooring! What Now?

No problem. The folks at Pergo realized that this is an inevitable mishap in a bustling household. They therefore made sure that you have access to Pergo Finishing Putty. Simply neaten the edges of the chipped area with a small knife, make sure the area is clean, and fill the hole with putty. A spatula gives a neat finish and the excess is simply wiped away with a clean cloth. Plank replacements are also possible if a more major repair is needed.

With a gleaming Pergo Presto or Pergo American Cottage floor installation, your home will be transformed into a wrinkle-less, stylish lady. Pergo Laminate Flooring has been performing plastic surgery on properties for years. It's about time to let that tattered carpet go...

Pergo Laminate Flooring - Learn How to Do a DIY Pergo Flooring Installation

Home-improvement-time.com - Also read ' Installing Laminate Flooring - Tips To Prevent Buckling Eye-Sores In Living Rooms' and get advice about obtaining many types of free laminate samples to help you decide!

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